2002 Campion Sarmento Vineyard Pinot Noir
Four barrels produced in 750ml
For Campion a vineyard designated wine such as this one indicates the highest level of barrel selected reserve. To begin with the vintage and its wines must be rich enough that some of the cream can be skimmed off without harming the main wines. As no blending of any kind is allowed in a vineyard designate the wine must be inherently balanced. These conditions are not often obtained. Perhaps one wine in five can be a candidate for barrel selection. The process is simplicity itself. Once the decision has been made each barrel is tasted and the barrels that best match the wine are set aside for a separate bottling. As each barrel has slightly different flavor by this process the oak and wine marriage can be perfected. There is not any more quantity of oak flavor, but the quality of the oak and its harmony with the wine are better.
The 2002 vintage was an easy one as all great vintages are. When people say wines make themselves they are referring to only the best vintages. If the grape ripening is perfect then the most elemental classic techniques can be utilized. Crop and berry size were both small which resulted in deep color and intense flavor. The late season conditions were mild so freshness and finesse were preserved.
The Sarmento Vineyard is located in the center of the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation. These eastern facing slopes have a near perfect combination of soil, climate and exposure. I used a combination of Pommard and Dijon115 clones fermented together. The wine had a two week cuvaison, and was aged in barrels for eleven months. Only free run wine was used. No fining was performed. The wine received a polish filtration. At every stage this wine has shown an exuberance of flavor. During its fermentation it was astoundingly aromatic and this to me is the clearest early indicator of a great Pinot. During its first year in bottle it was a bit grapey or raw, but is now settling down gracefully in its second year. I think its youthful peak will be in the next 12 to 24 months (fall of ’05 to fall of ’07), but with proper care it will give pleasure for many years to come.
Pinot Noir is such a diplomat at the table, getting along with just about every dish, that it is hard to give definite recommendations. For me, the richer the wine is, the simpler the cuisine should be. I particularly like grilled or roasted fowl with Pinot.
Larry Brooks
winemaker