2000 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

1100 cases bottled in 750ml

It is said that wine becomes a kind of liquid geography. If this is so, then the map which Pinot Noir provides is the most true. It is Campion’s desire to illuminate portions of the territory. The 2000 vintage may have been the last vintage of the 20th Century of the first vintage of the 21st, but in either case it was kind to Pinot Noir. Like the two preceding harvests it was small in size and late in arriving. Rain is the great risk of a late vintage. Fortunately, it did not appear. What did happen was a spike of heat just prior to full ripeness. This caused congestion in the cuverie more than any real harm to the wines. In some ways warm harvests are what typify Californian vintages. It is what gives them the softness which makes their youth so irresistible.

Paraiso Springs Vineyard was the only source for this wine. Located on the southern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation, the site was planted in 1973. In this relatively new winegrowing area this is considered a mature vineyard. Two vineyard blocks prosaically termed #4 and #6, were used to make this wine. Paraiso Springs is typical for the appellation. It faces east to southeast on a sloping bench land above the Salinas River. The warmer southern location within the appellation is a real advantage in a region known for wind and cold.

I believe that it is the vintners task to try to bring out the essence of an appellation, not to attempt quixotically to transform it into something it is not. The essence of this site is its enormous potential for perfume. I choose to enhance this aromatic aspect by co-fermenting the Pinot Noir with a hint of Pinot Gris. It has been reported since the 19th Century that this technique will add to the perfume without diminishing color. Observers wiser than myself have also noted that color is no more necessary in Pinot Noir than are clothes on a beautiful body. You are free to think of this wine as standing naked before you.

Flavor discussions are fraught with pitfalls. The sensitivities, sensibilities and the vocabulary we employ to describe them are uniquely our own. Within the wide range of Pinot Noir styles this one falls to the more delicate end, personally my favorite style. It could not have been otherwise, and I do not wish that it had been. Pinot Noir is the only classic red varietal that achieves greatness through delicacy. Most other red wines must have power to succeed. Pinot Noir’s unique gift is its ability to conquer with finesse. It is a diplomat at the table as well, getting along with a remarkable array of foods. I like it best with grilled, smoked, or roasted fowl, especially quail.

It has been my experience that Pinots of this style will reach a youthful peak of flavor in their 2nd full year in bottle. For this wine that would mean Summer of ’03. When and if they will reach an aged peak is harder to say with any certainty, but it is what adds risk and excitement to collecting. I’m betting that this wine will show some interesting character after 5 to 7 years of bottle age.